Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Repas CG: The Aftermath... October 13

Never easy leaving France. The light, smells, people, the day's rhythm, these are things easy to wear, hard to be without. Food can't take me back there, but it does help. The recent repas composed of flavors I'd recently left behind spoke of the village that clings to memory. Having familiar faces table side to share the meal with just made it that much better.
 Squash soup started us off, rich in fennel to balance the sweet. For texture, tossed on top some pumpkin seeds toasted with a light dusting of chili, and added a bit of crème fraîche, of course. A Saumer, 100% Chenin Blanc, provided the acid needed without lingering too long with the fruit. Remembering a neighbor's gift of an "extra" rabbit one morning in Charmè a few weeks back sparked the making of rillette. Served on toasts, a bed of lightly tossed mâche to counter the necessary fat, roasted figs were tucked in to play off the meat. Reminded me of the fig tree down the le chemin blanc behind the church, thick with figs when I departed. Can just hear Jean Moreau generously imploring to take as much as wanted, lest the birds eat them. A Grenache fat Rhône hit the glass.


Duck legs stuffed in dried cherries, sage, and wild rice came next set over a turnip purée. Just a little butter and cream were involved, along with some duck stock for good measure. Flavors come deep with duck, the cherries helping to ease. A Premier Cru Burgundy was called on, offering finesse and soft fruit.
 Went fairly easy on choosing the cheese, allowing for the preceding plates linger. So, a triple cream from the Loire and a Camembert were served. Went the way of the first with the wine, pouring a Cabernet Franc from the same region. Rustic pear tarts followed, a sprig of rosemary added during baking gave a soft scent. Coffee and cognac were passed about, the afternoon warmth betraying the season. Then again, it's the Bay Area, where summer comes late. 

Recipes and Wine List poured available on request.

http://www.chez-gautier.com

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